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Progress paradox

(More fruit more juice - Dohuk, Iraq.)
While I have been in Iraq this year, Turkey invaded northern Iraq. The Turkish government also voted to allow head scarfs in college class rooms worrying some that their 99 percent Muslim society is slipping back to a more Islamic culture departing from Ataturk's reforms.

President Mahmoud Ahmadinejad of Iran visited Iraq while I was here. Also the Republic of Iraq - Kurdistan Region is hosting a summit of parliamentary delegates from 18 Arab nations. Security has been even stricter than my last visit less than two years ago. I went through check point after check point all across the region.

The Iraqi government approved a new national flag just recently - one which is less reminiscent of the Saddam era. The national Iraqi flag was showing up just a bit during this trip to northern Iraq. But, the national Iraqi flag only seems to show up if the Kurdish flag is center stage. And remember, I was here during the summit of visiting national leaders.

Something different this trip is that I was frequently stopped on the street and asked for my passport. I was detained at least a dozen times. Last trip I only got caught up in a couple of detention episodes. But for every time I was stopped, this time there were two experiences in the street of people being nice. I was invited in shops for tea - I graciously accepted a dinner invitation to someone's home. Many of the soldiers that detained me smiled apologetically after they realized I was American. Many often shook my hand. Few if anyone here has ever seen an American passport or can read the English in one.

Even after all the added security, a hotel in Sulaymaniyah that is on the main drag and I had to often walk past, was attacked. It happened only a couple days after I left the area.

Things seem at a more rapid pace here in Northern Iraq than on my first visit. The bad roads are being torn up, Saddam's old road signs are disappearing, and the roads are carrying a steady pace of trucks packed with goods and building supplies.

There seems to be more Internet shops. Cell phones are more ubiquitous than ever. The streets are busy with shoppers. There also is usually an endless line of cars on every street.

Don't misunderstand. I spent most of my trip with no heat or hot water. The rest of the time the electricity barely stayed on. It is the living paradox that is northern Iraq.

I am told I will be missing the spring celebration - fireworks and things - if I leave now. I politely keep telling everyone, I will catch the spring party on my next visit.

Bob Keith
Dohuk, Iraq

View more pictures from Bob's travels.